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An Alternative Lifestyle--Living and Traveling
Full-time in a Recreational Vehicle
From  Yosemite  to Oregon 
 
From The September 1991 Issue of Movin' On 

It was tough to leave Yosemite. We had made so many friends and really loved our work in the History Center. Our last night in Wawona was very special. We attended our last barn dance in the old gray barn, and it was all the more special because Mary and Stacy (those Crane Flat girls) came all the way from their campground to see us. The barn dances were really fun since Ron and I were finally getting the hang of it all, but that night it was mixed with lots of tears and much sadness as the evening came to a close. When the dance was over, we walked through the Pioneer History Center and up our hill one last time. And on Sunday morning, July 28, we pulled out of that special campsite at about 10 a.m. We could see the pioneers getting ready to open up as we drove on down the road and I cried again. It had been a wonderful summer full of many great memories. 

Our drive was easy---only four hours and we arrived at a Kampgrounds Of America (KOA) campground in Lodi at about two in the afternoon. We choose this private campground because it was close to the Plymouth dealer where we had an appointment to deliver the car at 8 a.m. Monday. 

Once we had the car taken care of, we went to our new home for a week---a CCC in Isleton. We were quite surprised at the area. Lots of waterways; a brochure states that there are over 1,000 miles of waterways in the Sacramento Delta. We choose the area because it was near Robert's apartment and not far from San Francisco and Napa Valley. We were hungry to do some real sightseeing, but were still without wheels so Tuesday morning, we jumped on our bikes and explored 20 miles along the Levee. It was great riding, and we hadn't done such a ride in months. It felt good!! On Wednesday, we got up early, drove the car to Lodi, waited for the fan to be installed, shopped at a farmer's market, took the food home, put it away, and took off for Napa Valley. It was fantastic to be able to do some touring. Thursday, we stayed close to home, did laundry, and relaxed. Robert and Dean came over for dinner and we celebrated Robert's birthday one day early. Friday we took off again for Napa Valley. That time we knew ?what we were doing. 

Napa Valley, is that area of California which begins at San Pablo Bay, just northeast of San Francisco, and continues north about 30 miles. This narrow valley (from one to five miles wide) is protected by low mountains on the east and west and is kissed by the bay area fog. If you stop in at the visitor center in the town of Napa Valley, south end of the valley, you can pick up a detailed map which outlines the only two north-south routes through the valley and shows each winerie's location. On the back there is a list of each winerie's services, hours, whether or not they give tours, etc. We were overwhelmed. There are over 200 wineries in the valley. Where does one start? We really arrived too late to do much the first day and the gal at the visitor center suggested we tour one winery which was near by. Domaine Chandon Winery is owned by a French company and gave a very informative tour. We learned all about the Pinot Noir grape which grows best in the southern part of the valley. Valley temperatures can vary as much as 10-12 degrees from one end of the valley to the other. We also learned about the fermentation process for the champaign made at that winery. We were all set for a tasting session at the end of the tour and were surprised to find that they do not offer tastes; you may buy a glass of champaign and enjoy some free crackers and cheese. We are not fond of sparkling wines anyway, so we said adieu. 

Looking at the hours of the other wineries, we realized that the tour had left us with little remaining time. One that was still open was De Moor Winery. There were no tours there, but after buying a souvenir wine glass for $1.50, we could taste the wines they were featuring. We did and liked their Chenin Blanc enough to buy two bottles. We stopped at another winery, but I don't even remember the name. It wasn't very memorable, and we drove the length of the valley just looking out at the neat rows of grape vines on the sides of the hills. The mist was rolling in and it looked as pretty as a soft French painting. When we got to St. Helena at the northern end of the valley, we saw the BIG wineries --- Christian Brothers, Beringer, and Krug. Their buildings were elegant and large with paths through lush flower gardens. We knew we had to come back. 

On Friday, we arrived in time for the first tour at Christian Brothers Winery. What a class operation. This tour was historical---telling how the religious order used to have a dairy farm but realized there was more money to be made in wine. During prohibition, they had no problem staying in business because they sold wines for communion. The joke was that people turned to religion (at least communion) more during that time. When the tour ended, we found ourselves in an exquisitely furnished lounge and were taught the fine art of wine tasting; it was really quite a lesson. Three wines were tasted, starting with a dry white, then semi-dry red, and ending with a dessert wine. From there, we hurried over to the Krug Winery for the 11a.m. tour; they only have three tours a day. Just across the street, the Charles Krug Winery has the distinction of being the oldest winery still in operation. This tour was a little historical but concentrated more on the making of the wine. Again, at the end, we had another lesson (a little different) in wine tasting and were able to sample three different wines. These tours are great if you have ever been apprehensive about opening wine bottles. They do a good job of showing you how to do it properly and with the least amount of effort. 

For lunch we went into St. Helena and chose to eat at the Spring Street Restaurant. It was charming and the pasta salad was delicious. Our last tour of the day was at the Beringer Winery and again we were impressed with all we learned and the class of the operation. If you ever get a chance to go to Napa Valley, plan on a whole day at least, and I would suggest starting with the three I just mentioned. If there is time, stop at any of the others. 

Saturday morning early, we drove to San Francisco to see Robert and the Coast Guard Cutter Sherman off. It was sad to say goodbye again, and I realized that saying goodbye is a part of our lifestyle. It was interesting to see some of what goes on when a ship leaves port. Ron remarked that he'd like to see what is involved in getting David's ship (the aircraft carrier Eisenhower) underway. 

Since we were already in town, we did some shopping in Mc Donald's Book Store. They boast being the largest used book dealer in town and I found what I wanted, an out-of-print copy of Lady Bird Johnson's A White House Diary. I can now read up on her before we go to the ranch. At the computer store I got the new 5.0 version of MS DOS and at Stacy's Book Store, a big modern bookstore with every kind of book in the world, we bought Means of Ascent (LBJ history). 

We left Isleton on Sunday and headed north on US 101. Our first stop was near the lumbering town of Garberville. Since it was only to be a one night stop, we immediately hopped in the car to do a little touring. The drive on a narrow mountain road west to Shelter Cove was a treat. It is right on the ocean. What a place!! What a view!! For dinner we ate a yummy hamburg and french fries at The Blue Moon Saloon back in Garberville. It was fun to eavesdrop on all the local conversation and we met Von Aie. She told us to be sure and stop in Phillipsville on our way out in the morning and eat breakfast at her mom's place (Road Runner Cafe). We don't normally stop for breakfast but decided we would this time, and enjoyed a good breakfast and lots of good conversation with her mom and step-father. They dream of full-timing as soon as their youngest graduates. We said we would tell them when the book is ready. 

After breakfast the drive was short and easy. We stayed on US 101 until we saw the sign for Ferndale. Many people told us not to miss this town even though it meant going out of our way (seven miles west of 101). Totally charming and beautifully Victorian is the best way to describe the town. Each and every house is well preserved, brightly painted, and adorned with well manicured yards. And the three block downtown area was just as interesting. We parked the motorhome and car in a free lot designed for RVs and walked the streets. The first store we visited supplied us with a map and description of each of the shops. In our travels, we have visited many towns and we look in many stores that seem to have the same merchandise, but these stores and their goods were unique. The Mercantile was one of the highlights of the town. It was like going into a museum but everything was really for sale. I have no idea where they  came from, but you could buy such things as Fels Naphtha soap, or liniments, old buttons, hardware, shoes (all old fashioned), and candy. Remember those strips of paper that held lots of colored candy dots that we used to buy for a penny? They sold those too but now the price is 30 cents. 

Ferndale has become famous in the last 30 years for their annual Kinetic Sculpture Race held over the Memorial Day weekend. One enters the race by building some sort of contraption that can be pedaled. There is a small museum in town where many of the past sculptures are on display. We were amazed at the imagination of some and swore we were in some Disney movie lot. Hobart Brown, local sculptor, started this race when he built a five wheel contraption out of his son's tricycle and a few in town thought they could build something better. The race was on and last year some 54 strange contrivances from six states entered. Brown has a store in town. As soon as we entered the shop, we could tell he was a genius and maybe a bit crazy too. He lives up above the store and invites any who want to see his apartment, to do so. For a one dollar donation you can just walk up stairs and look around. We did, but it sure felt strange to walk through the apartment when no one was there. It looked like something you'd see in a Disney movie --- art (junk?) here and there. Interesting! 

Eureka is a large city in Northern California right on Hwy 101. Although not nearly as neat and pretty as Ferndale, we did enjoy riding our bikes up and down the streets admiring all the pretty houses. The thing everyone must do while in Eureka is eat at the Samoa Cook House. It is the last surviving lumberman's cook house in the west and the food is both plentiful and tasty. When we arrived for lunch, we were seated at a long table. With the clanging of pots and pans, it was noisy but all part of the atmosphere. There's no menu ---you get what is being served and it is all family style; the beginning was a tureen of soup, a big bowl of salad, and a basket heaped with homemade bread ---big thick slices. Lunch was a breaded pork chop, potatoes, gravy, vegetables, and dessert.

Redwood  National Park weaves in and out of private and state park lands in the northern part of California. The park begins about 16 miles south of Oregon and runs down the coast for about 50 miles. The tall trees are everywhere and we were impressed with the difference between these and their cousin ---the Giant Sequoia. They do grow taller but most impressive was the denseness of the forest. We went on an informative ranger walk, spent time in the visitor centers, and took a couple of hikes on our own. One was to see the tallest trees in the world. The hike down was easy; coming up was tough---very steep, but it was well worth it all. 

We camped in a CC campground at Klamath and did a lot of driving. One very special treat was dining at the Requa Inn. It was very elegant, the food was superb, and the owners very friendly. This out-of-the-way place should be a must on everyone's list. After dinner, we took a drive along the rugged coast and watched the fog roll in as the sun set. 

Oregon   On August 11, we crossed the border into Oregon and loved everything we saw there. The people were friendly and it was fun to shop there because there is no sales tax. We entered the state on Hwy 199 and drove through Cave Junction; they were having some sort of festival and it looked like fun. From there we went through Grants Pass and southeast to Talent, a suburb of Medford, where we had reservations at a CCC. 

Ashland, just south of Talent, is famous for their summer Shakespeare plays. They have three theaters and all summer long run three different Shakespearean plays. One theater is out-of-doors, and we marveled at the stage. The theaters take turns having a matinee, so they have four performances a day. We inquired about getting tickets but were told they are always sold out for two weeks. From all appearances it looked like a scholarly town with many art and book stores. The shops were very expensive too. Many classical concerts are held during the summer months in the beautiful city park. 

Jacksonville is a lovely historic old mining town full of fun shops and good places to eat, just a short distance from Medford. We spent a whole day there. We ate lunch on the patio at Bella Union (four star), toured the town on Sam's Trolley, browsed the many shops, spent at least one hour in the museum which was in the old court house, and visited the Beekman house. This house was owned by one of the prominent citizens of the day and is now open as living history. Since we had just spent two months in living history, we thought it would be fun to see how someone else does it. Ron and I both felt that we had truly gone back in time. The maid greeted us and showed us the kitchen and her room. Then we met Mrs. Beekman who showed us the parlor and answered our questions about her life. Selznick couldn't have cast a more perfect looking lady to play the part of this elderly woman from 1911. To help us tour the upstairs of the house, we were introduced to her niece. It was wonderful! 

Crater Lake National Park is less than 100 miles northeast of Medford, so it was another easy drive. The campground was one of the nicest national park campgrounds we had ever been in. The spaces were very wide and the trees made a nice privacy fence on three sides. The lake is a wonder. It was a volcano. About 7,000 years ago it erupted with 42 times the force of Mt. St. Helen and the mountain caved in on itself. Over the years, the snow that fell there has melted and filled up the lake. This park gets an average of 50 feet of snow annually and winter is from the end of September to mid June. The lake is the bluest blue I have ever seen. It is the color of a bottle of ink. This very clear lake is 1,932 feet deep at its deepest. We hiked down to the lake edge (one mile---very steep) and took the ranger guided boat trip around the lake. The hike back up was equal to hiking up 150 flights of stairs to the 75th floor of a building. It was not an easy trip but well worth it. We had intended to ride our bikes around the lake (33 miles), but the grades were much too steep for me. It was either going up (6 percent grades for up to two miles) or going down; there was no level ground. Even with all the hiking, the three days that we spent there were very restful. 

La Pine and Bend are just north of Crater Lake on Hwy 97. This central part of Oregon is high desert. Elevation in Bend is about 3,500 feet and it is surrounded by snow capped mountains. Mt. Bachelor is world famous for skiing, and we made a little trip there to check out the chair lifts. It was warm (75 degrees) when we started up the chair lift, but it was about 50 degrees and windy when we got to the top and yes, there was snow still up there. I just can't get over seeing snow so late in August. 

The High Desert Museum should be a must on anyone's list. It is located just a few miles south of town and when you go, allow several hours to see it all. There are many interesting displays on history and geography and every half hour, they have a demonstration of something. We particularly enjoyed a half hour program on birds of prey. This part of Oregon does not get the rain and mist that the coast does but there is no shortage of water here; everyone is watering lawns day and night and the rivers are full and fast. Several National Forests surround the area and there are many things to see and do here. Lakes and rivers are great for fishing, boating, and rafting. One can enjoy everything from hiking to antique shopping. We are in Bend as I write this. We'll have the Newsletters printed here. I also had a physical here, and we both had our eyes examined and have new glasses. If I had to choose a place to live (right now) I would pick Bend. The people, the town, the facilities, the culture, everything is here. It is a town of about 20,000 people and even though there is a mall and many of the typical stores on the main drag (US 97), there is a downtown and not one store is vacant. And it is not real easy to get downtown because of the one-way streets and the fact that it is off the beaten path. There are three square blocks of all kinds of stores that people need. Not tourist stuff but real shops. Downtown is alive and there is ample parking. There is a medical center here with 36 doctors, x-ray, lab, pharmacy, and right across the street from the very modern hospital. 

So that is what we have been seeing these last few weeks. We plan to get over to Oregon's coast when we leave here on Friday, September 6, and from there we will head to Washington. There are so many things to see and places to go. 
 

 Copyright © 1999, Movin' On with Ron & BarbTM- All Rights Reserved