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IN THIS NEWSLETTER: NORTH ALONG LAKE HURON
Pictures to go with all of these stories are on our What's
New page
NORTH ALONG LAKE HURON We left Tawas Point State Park on Monday, July 5 and headed north. There was hardly anyone going in our direction. For one thing we were on one of those red roads (U.S. 23) and we were going north. Most traveling north would rather use I-75. We commented in the last newsletter how wonderful the surface of U.S.
23 was and it remained great to the end (Mackinaw City). Roads in Michigan
have been deteriorating over the last few years and we have dreaded traveling
on any of them, but 23 was super. Lake Huron was visible on our right most
of the
Just north of Rogers City, we pulled off at a scenic pull-out. Since it was just about lunch time, we made sandwiches and took them to the picnic table which was overlooking Lake Huron. We were all alone; not a single car pulled in the whole time we were there. CROSSING THE MACKINAW BRIDGE
BRIMLEY, MICHIGAN SWIMMING IN LAKE SUPERIOR
It is almost never hot in Michigan's upper peninsula, but the day we
arrived was terribly hot and humid. Although we had electricity and could
run the air, I just wanted to cool my whole body down quickly so suggested
taking a dip in Lake Superior. Ron looked me like I had lost my mind; Lake
Superior is always ice cold. I explained that I had just read that Whitefish
Bay on which Brimley rests is the warmest in the
We enjoyed two wonderful days in Brimley. Since we have visited the area many times before, we did not go to Whitefish Point and the Shipwreck Museum this time, but if you go anywhere near that area, we highly recommend both. We drove to Sault Ste. Marie and found a Wal-Mart and a nice grocery store. There is almost nothing to Brimley, but just down the road is the Bay
Mills Indian Casino and Resort. We went to the casino the first night,
lost a little money and said we had enough. But Marv, the head ranger at
Brimley, said that the restaurant at the resort was good and not expensive
so we went back the second night. The buffet which included beverage and
dessert was only $7.95 and it was good. Since we were there, I talked Ron
into playing the machines just a little bit. He headed to the nickel poker
machines and I headed to the dollar slots. With the first three dollars
I deposited, I won $150 so I coaxed Ron away from the nickel machines and
let him dip into my bucket at the dollar poker machines. I won another
$68 and
FOLLOWING THE NORTHERN SHORE OF LAKE SUPERIOR We left Brimley on the morning of July 7 and drove the back road to Sault Ste. Marie, (Soo) Michigan, then jumped on I-75 for the last mile or so of that highway. It took us to the International Bridge which is the link between Soo Michigan and Soo Canada. The bridge at the Soo is short, but does afford a terrific view of the Soo Locks and a huge pulp mill just inside Canada. I was able to get a good pictures from the moving motorhome. Sault Ste. Marie Canada is a very big and modern city. There is no comparison to the U.S. city of the same name. Route 17 in Canada is a beautiful road in scenic value as well as in road condition. It was like a new road. By looking at the map, it looked like there would be few (if any) towns to travel through on the eastern side and that proved to be true.In fact early on we entered the Lake Superior Provincial Park and there were no commercial businesses or houses to be seen. The landscape was that of heavily wooded rolling hills and the rugged coastline of Lake Superior. I discovered that looking away for a second meant that I would miss another spectacular sight. Lake Superior appeared on our left now and again and always the brief glimpse was awesome and to the north there were many small lakes with trees so thick around the lakes and on the little islands that it looked like a true wilderness. There were no signs of human life except for those of us traveling the highway. TOO BIG
The young ranger at Agawa said we would not have any problem fitting
in and assigned us to the longest pull-through. We had planned to unhook
the car and drive through the campground first, but she was so confidant
that we didn't bother. Feeling good about being able to get into the provincial
park, we left
We were going to try Rabbit Blanket because she suggested that the sites were bigger there, but when we got there, road construction was going on just at the entrance and we didn't feel like dealing with that. We went on down the road and pulled into the Wawa RV Resort and Campground in Wawa which wasn't what we wanted, but it turned out to be very nice; it just wasn't the wooded wilderness we had hoped for. WAWA
There was one difficult part of Canada's Route 17 for us and that was that there were few pull offs. So many times, we wanted to stop to get a better view but we didn't dare. When signs indicated that there was a scenic spot, we couldn't tell if it was something we could get out of or not so we avoided them. So early the next morning, we packed a lunch and took off in the truck backtracking our drive on Route 17. There was a waterfall that I wanted a better look at and some hiking trails that sounded interesting. The first stop on our day-long trip was right in Wawa to view the Scenic High Falls near town. That was a short, but fun trip and the falls were beautiful. Our next stop was the Old Woman Harbor. A ranger was collecting money
for day use and we asked her how long the Old Woman trail was. After learning
that she didn't know for sure but thought that it was a four hour hike,
we passed on that one and continued east. By the way, the day charge (if
you are
Most of the evening before we had been talking about our close call at the Agawa Campground and we wondered if we should have checked out Rabbit Blanket after all. On our day-long trip, we made a little stop and after explaining that we were just checking out campgrounds for future reference, we were allowed to go into the campground. There were many sites we could have fit into. Now you know that and next time we will be better prepared. We pulled off at the next hiking sign (Gargantua) to learn that we needed
to drive 8 miles down a rough dirt road to get to the trail head. We started
out and went about 3 miles. It was such slow going that we decided we would
be taking most of our time just driving the road. We got back on 17 and
continued
Trapper's trail was the next stop and we enjoyed a hike that followed
the shoreline of Rustle Lake which was originally nothing more than a wide
portion of a forest stream. Beavers dammed it and aquatic plant life grew
inot the shallow waters forming the wetland. There were two viewing platforms
and we
For lunch we stopped at Katherine Cove and sat on some large rocks at the edge of Lake Superior. The sun was warm and it was fun to watch the birds and hear the gentle waves brush the rocks. The lake looked peaceful and calm. In the nice sized Wawa tourist booklet they listed many hikes and canoe
trips for the serious outdoor enthusiast. If you are into 5-7 day hikes,
they have a few to offer. Or how about a 10-14 day canoe adventure? The
little footnote at the bottom of the canoeing page will help you understand
a little
We turned back to the campground just after we reached the easternmost
part of the Provincial park at Crescent Lake. On our way back I happened
to notice that every little while someone had placed cairns on top of the
higher ledges on the sides of the highway. Cairns are a grouping of rocks
placed on top of each other pointing the way on a trail. This was no trail;
this was a highway. It puzzled me why I was seeing them quite regularly.
We were watching the Canadian National news later that night and they told
about a movement started by an artist who has a shop in Toronto and sells
cairns. They are not sure who started placing them on the highways but
they are there. I guess people put them along the highways just for
HAWK JUNCTION
We learned that the town's business is the railroad and were directed
to the "business district" that we missed. It consisted of an old run down
hotel, a confectionery store and a bar which advertised that they also
sold the "sexiest worms on earth." The train runs to Hearst through a wilderness
(there are no roads between Hawk Junction and Hearst) and transports hunters
and fishermen to any stop they choose along
DINNER SURPRISE
The restaurant was full and when the waitress started to sing "Happy
Birthday, everyone joined in. It was neat. Shortly after the singing,a
lady near the center of the restaurant said, "Excuse me" in a kind of pleading
voice, and we all looked up to see her pointing toward the glass entry
door. With our eyes, we followed her finger. Imagine our surprise to see
a black bear pressing his nose and paws right into the
We were scheduled to leave Wawa the next morning, but awoke to the sound of rain. It looked like an all day thing so we decided to stay one more day. Without reservations and a schedule we had no reason to drive on a rainy day. It turned out to be a very relaxing day; we both read and did a little computer work. The next day dawned bright and sunny. It was a perfect day for travel so we did. SCHREIBER
We like to take off and drive the park, search out the nearby towns and see what is available our first afternoon. What we discovered was that the town of Rossport a little west was also nice and would have been okay for us too, but we preferred the woods to the lake shore. Rossport was a cute little village with Bed and Breakfasts and little restaurants and gift shops. Schrieber (east of our park just a few miles) was not at all touristy
and we were surprised to see Christmas decorations on the lamp posts and
houses fully decorated for Christmas. I could ran into a store to inquire
and learned that they have a Christmas in July each year and everyone decorates
like it was December. We also learned that the town is made up of many
people of Italian decent so we searched out an Italian
Rosie and Josies sounded great and it was. This large attractive restaurant had an ample menu with many traditional items. Ron ordered spaghetti with hot Italian sausage and I ordered baked lasagna. We were surprised to find our waitress was in fact Josie, the owner of the restaurant. Rosie retired nine years ago, but her name remains on the building. Josie said she cooks all day and waits tables at night. We stayed at Rainbow Falls for two nights and on our second day, we walked down the 180 steps to view the falls, then hiked up to the top of the trail on the other side of the Whitesands River to view a spectacular sight. It was a panoramic view of Lake Superior. Yes, we climbed back up those 180 steps too.
THUNDER BAY, ONTARIO, CANADA It was an easy drive from Rainbow Falls along more good road to reach Thunder Bay. We really hadn't decided on a campground yet and from the Trailer Life Campground Directory and our Map and Go program on the computer, we had picked three that were possible. We decided to check out the first one we came to and go further on if that wasn't okay. The KOA was the one. It was on the east side of town and had big sites. For only the second time since we left Mesa, Arizona, late in May, we got a full hook up site and as a bonus didn't have to worry about trees. The campground rate was very reasonable at only $20 (Canadian)which translated to about $12.50 American. Such a bargain!! We didn't do much the first day, and planned to visit Old Fort William all day on our second day. But when we woke up the second day it was raining and looked like it would last forever. We decided that if it cleared up, we would go to the fort, otherwise we would stay another day. It is nice to have such flexibility. It did clear up at noon so off we went. We could have spent the whole
day at the fort because it is the best we have ever visited. They do a
terrific job at presenting life as it was in this large fur trading fort
in the early 1800's. We were most impressed at the knowledge of the players.
We played along and asked lots of questions as though it was 1815. We were
rewarded with great answers. We learned of the
A definite highlight of the day was being able to see a birch bark canoe being built and learned that only six people in all of North America know this old art. If you have access to the web, you might enjoy some of the pictures of our day at the fort.
THERE'S TROUBLE IN GRAND MARAIS, MINNESOTA We left Canada the next morning (July 14) with some mixed feelings.
Our time there had been too short but so very relaxing that we felt rejuvenated.
As soon as we entered the states at Grand Portage, Minnesota, we were welcomed
with less than perfect roads. Oh how we had been spoiled in both
After we got settled we went for a ride in our Toyota truck. Low and behold we found Cascade River state park just south of here. I had Ron stop and I went into the office to see if we could just drive through the park (they weren't busy) and see if our motorhome would fit the sites. We have done this many times and never been refused. We were refused; we had to have a state park sticker. No way was I gonna buy one when I might not be able to use it. She wouldn't budge and just said that there were a few sites that a 40 foot motorhome would fit in. You know what I thought (@#$%%^)? But I just went on my merry way. The final straw came when we went to the IGA grocery store. We smiled but she couldn't say "Hi" or "How are you?" or "Go to Hell" and when she didn't say "Thank you" Ron said, "You're welcome" anyway. The view of the lake here is beautiful, but not any prettier than Leland, Michigan, or Grand Marais, Michigan, and definitely not worth what these people apparently think it is worth. A FOOTNOTE AS WE ARE READY TO SEND THIS OUT We went back to the office this morning and the manager was much more helpful and cheerfully refunded us one night's camping fee. We asked who to see at the Town Hall and were directed to talk with Russell Good. We explained to the clerks at the Town Hall that we were writers and wanted some information on the new campground fees. Mr. Good wasn't in. The two clerks said that they weren't able to discuss anything about the situation. They indicated (as did the campground people) that they don't like the new change either and suggested that our questions might be answered by the members of the Public Utilities Commission (PUC) who were responsible for the change. We were given three names: Ron Lund (his mother owns Lund's Motel which is across from the campground); Gene Erickson who owns "what's left of the Standard gas station" and Don Schulte at Super America. One clerk added that Don Schulte had tried to get the vote changed and apologized to the campers which indicitated that the other two were the ones we needed to talk to. The Standard station was easy to spot, but there were no gas pumps. We walked into the little dingy office and asked if Mr. Erickson was in. He was on a wrecker call and we were told he should return soon. We went across to the Ben Franklin store to wait for his wrecker to show up. An obvious sign at the edge of the gas station said, "Future home of Harbor park." When Mr.Erickson returned we walked to the wrecker and waited while
he chatted to the UPS man. Ron introduced himself and stated that we were
writers and wanted more information on the campground fees. We could tell
that he has had to answer these questions many times and in fact later
said that he gets
From the sketchy information we got while standing in the cold breeze in front of the station, we learned that the real gripe is from people who have cottages here. When they leave in the winter they have to pay $40 per month in utility bills even though they turn their utilities off when they leave. They blame the campground for this and believe that the residents subsidize the campground. Then Mr. Erickson said that there are RVs in the park with skirting all around and flower boxes and those people stay all summer but don't have to pay the winter bills like the cottage owners do. "Oh, so that's it," I thought. People think that the seasonal campers have it made. Does anyone stop to think though that cottage owners have appreciation in their property values where the RV renter has nothing. If it is unfair and we don't think so, why not just raise the rent on the seasonal renter? There is something fishy here and it isn't the whitefish. Both the Standard
station and the motel are run down. It doesn't look like business is good
for either of them and then there is the soon to be developed Harbor Park.
Why are they cutting off their noses? Mr. Erickson agreed that the increase
was 30
Ron added that if the sites were paved and level and if the electricity was 50 AMP, it might be worth more, but as is it is the most expensive campground of its sort in North America except for Wildnerness park at Disney World and they have Mickey and Minnie. BOYCOTT GRAND MARIAS, MINNESOTA
COMMUNICATION ON THIS LEG OF OUR TRIP We have had good luck again getting email even in state parks in Michigan. At Brimley, Marv (the head ranger), was very congenial. I make sure I tell them that I use a toll-free access number and will only be on the phone a short time, and I add that most prefer that I use the FAX line as that does not hinder the park from receiving phone calls. Just after I posted the last newsletter and mentioned that we would not be getting email in Canada and that we were going to the "wilderness." I reveived a couple of emails from Canadian women who let me know that there are phones in Canada and that it is not wilderness. I apologized and will post the letters when next I do that, but we were in a remote area most of the time. In Canada, the 800 access number for our internet service provider does not work. Nor was there a local number that I could use. So we really were out of touch by email. The folks at the campground in Wawa were very kind to let me use the phone line, but my numbers just wouldn't work and I didn't want to have them incur a toll call and/or try to figure the charges. We had a cell phone signal in both Sault Ste. Marie and Thunder Bay
(Ontario) but not a thing in between. We checked voice mail by using a
pay phone and our calling card. Even if we had had a signal, we wouldn't
have used the cell phone for anything other than an emergency because there
is an extra
POTPOURRI by Ron Thought for today: Why should a town benefit from a view that it didn't create? Maybe the profit from the high prices they charge should all go to the church. After all it is God's creation. After crossing the bridge at Sault Ste Marie, we began heading west. It will take a while, but we are actually heading to Mesa, Arizona---the long way. As Barb tells the story, it was a birthday that I will never forget. Do you think they planned for that bear to appear? My soul mate actually had me fooled when we got out of the newsletter business over a year ago. I should have known that she would get us right back into it somehow. At least I don't have to fold, stamp, staple and mail anymore. It's hard to avoid tourist areas when traveling in the north country during the summer, but I will try harder. Do you think it will be crowded in the Dakota's and western Nebraska? We'll let you know. You may think that the old accountant just likes the exchange rate, but I really do like Canada and the Canadian people. Last summer we were in Alberta, this summer Ontario and next summer perhaps British Columbia. I even have some Canadian currency left over.
BARB'S THIS N THAT We have just heard that Dick Goodman is now in a hospice. I am sure he would appreciate all of our prayers. Those of you who attended our camp out in Februaru will remember that he and his wife Alyce were with us and he was so happy to be a part of our group. Thank you. Remember my dental surgery early in May? I honestly thought that eating would be difficult for a long time but I am happy to report that just recently I have eaten crunchy carrots, steak and peanuts all with ease. Whoopie!!! While we were camping in Tawas over the July 4 weekend, we did a little
mental researching to remember all the different places we had spent that
holiday since we have been on the road. Interestingly, two were spent in
England and were among our fondest memories. One bed and breakfast where
we were staying had a picnic and celebration for us because they liked
Americans even though we beat their "bloody butts." One time we were volunteering
in Yosemite and we were all alone in the woods after working hours. And
a couple of times we were in state parks that were not in a high tourist
area. Last year we
Many who travel depend on USA today as their newspaper and national news on the TV for news. If we hadn't been watching local television in Canada, I never would have discovered the mystery of the cairns along the highway. We had cool, but pleasant weather once we got into Canada. A good indicator of what winter is like here, we saw the following sign near the entrance of a donut shop in Wawa: "Warning,snow and ice may fall from the roof." We also saw huge supplies of snowmobiles and snowshoes for sale. We couldn't get over how clean and liter free the highways were in Canada and there are no signs indicating that volunteers do the clean up. Another thing we liked about Ontario parks was the tender way rules were posted. There were no threatening tones to them. When you get this I will have posted two great new articles in our Guest section. One is about Chicken, Alaska, and the other is on Newfoundland. Also Ron's latest View from the Driver's Seat article is now on the web. Until next time, happy trails!!! |